Journal entries of Major Osborne Cross of the Mounted Riflemen, the first United States military expedition to travel the Oregon Trail from Fort Leavenworth to Fort Vancouver in 1849

OCTOBER 3. The morning began to moderate, but still the wind continued to blow from the northeast. It came down the river and had the same effect in the change of temperature as the northers have in Texas and Mexico. As the head of the portage was but a short distance from our encampment of last night, I reached it at an early hour this morning. The boats, which had become a little scattered in the gale of last evening, soon followed. We were all ready at an early hour this morning for a final debarkation. Each one had his story to tell in what manner he was saved from going over the falls in the fury of the gale and [some] were worse for a hat. Silk handkerchiefs were called readily into requisition by those who had been so unfortunate as to lose their hats in the bustle and confusion of the blow.

To those who knew nothing as to where the portage was to be made at that hour of the night and in the midst of the blow, which was strong enough to silence the sound of the angry waters as they whirled and boiled among the rocks with deafening sound, it was not an easy task to make themselves safe. I was glad to see them all arrive without any greater accident. About a mile from the head of the falls the river changes its direction and makes a sweep to the right, forming a bend. At the head of [this] there are three rocky islands with a few scattering fir trees, where the channel passes between them and the right bank. Here is the commencement of the strong current. The other two are opposite the first small fall. The boats all pass between the shore and island. Descending rapidly, they cross a small chute or fall, and by the dexterity of the helmsman swing into an eddy where the landing is made. [This] is the head of the portage and halfway to the foot of the falls. From this point the portage is made either in a wagon or by hand for about half a mile over a very rugged road that brings you to the foot of the Great falls and the head of what is called the Lower rapids. From thence to the foot of the Lower rapids it is about three miles, which [distance] is passed in boats with some difficulty, but in safety when [they are] managed by skillful helmsmen who know where the different points are to guide their boats.

The Cascades or Great falls of the Columbia river are not more than three-quarters of a mile in length, and there is no part where the water has a perpendicular fall. At the commencement of the rapid the rocks project from the left bank and form a reef partly under water until it nearly crosses to the upper island. This is the first ripple where the water receives an increased velocity. [It] glides swiftly down for about a quarter of a mile, when it passes a high rock and in a short distance meets with some half dozen more, where it commences to boil and foam with all its fury. The river between the island and left bank contracts considerably, and the whole column of water of the Columbia river passes down over masses of rock, forming in its way whirl-pools through the whole distance which cause the water to roll up as if there were some immense pressure below. It makes a magnificent scene. The sublimity of it can hardly be described or surpassed. A continuation to the foot of the rapids will make a distance of four miles. There are several pitches, which are made by the several ledges of rock extending across the river. [These] make it dangerous, particularly when the river is low, as was the case at this time. In high water not only the lower rapids are passed in ascending, but the big falls also, and in fact all the obstructions which are not only met with here and [at] the Dalles, but [at] other places of less importance.

On arriving at the portage this morning I learned that parts of harness and pieces of boxes had been found in the eddies below the falls, which fully confirmed my fears concerning the raft. The sun had scarcely risen above the mountains when I discovered two men on the opposite side among the rocks. From their destitute condition I was satisfied they were some of the men I had sent with the raft. [When] a canoe was dispatched and returned with them I learned that those in charge of the raft had continued to descend the river during the night of the second instead of lying by, as I had directed. [This] brought them to the falls about two o’clock in the morning and much sooner than they had anticipated. Finding themselves in danger they tried to cross to the right bank, but being unsuccessful [they] were carried on to the first rapid. So great was their surprise that they were not conscious of their real danger until in the heaviest of the water, when in an instant all went down. Six men were buried within the whirlpools. These two men who were saved, having but little clothing on, were better prepared to extricate themselves than the others, who had made no preparation to meet this awful catastrophe. Not coming in contact with the massive rocks [they] were carried by the heavy columns of water to the eddies below. Here they were thrown by the counter currents into shoal water among the rocks without being injured, except a little bruised.

While passing over the rapids they were kept under the water. Sometimes [they were] thrown to the top by the pressure beneath, which enabled them to breathe for a moment. [Then] they were soon drawn under again. They were much exhausted and remained until daylight among the rocks. One of them passed down the river and did not meet the other till near the close of the day, not being aware that any person but himself was saved. Thus ended the lives of six valuable men. The destruction of the raft and the stores on it were of no importance compared with the loss of the men.

The boats were immediately unloaded, but Mr. Proulx, the Canadian who had charge of the Indians deemed it too dangerous at this stage of the water to at tempt to pass the boats over the falls. [He] assembled the Indians, and with about forty of them transported three mackinaw boats, one yawl, and a whale-boat half a mile over one of the most rugged roads I have ever traveled. [It] was filled with rocks and [Passed] through a thick pine forest. The stores were carried in a wagon and every preparation [was] made to leave by sundown. This was performing the work [in less time] than that [usually consumed] when boats were [taken] down by water. It may never be equaled again, much less surpassed. Having no further use for the canoes, which had been employed at the Dalles to assist in transporting the stores to the falls, they were all discharged and a large mackinaw boat substituted. This was too large to bring over the falls when the first were brought to the Dalles.

The banks of the river about here are extremely rocky, [while] the mountains are high and steep and thickly covered from their base to the top with pine, fir, and hemlock. The timber on the right bank of the river is much better than that on the left, as the mountains are not so high and the land more rolling. Much of the timber has been destroyed by fire along this part of the river, as it [has been] through [to] the Pacific.

OCTOBER 4. At sunrise the loading was renewed and finished by half-past eight p.m. Then the boats were taken by Mr. Proulx to the foot of the rapids. The detachment under Captain Claiborne was marched down, while Lieutenant Denman and his family walked to the foot of the rapids as they were at that time considered too dangerous to venture a boat. It was thought better to let the stores go [in boats] and the men could walk.

I had heard much of the petrified forest and went ill search of it, but found nothing of any importance. The small pieces of petrified wood which I found were of an inferior quality, but the specimen which I procured and brought with me is probably six inches in diameter. I was, however, much gratified and well paid by the walk, as I was enabled to examine a burial ground of the Dalles Indians which was on the high banks of the Columbia river in sight of the rapids and [in] one of the most secluded and romantic spots nature could have formed. It was in a large, dense grove of hemlock and fir trees whose limbs spread a shade over the whole spot. [These] almost excluded the light of heaven which seemed, in defiance of the foliage, to shed its rays now and then upon the tombs of the dead.

There were several repositories, rudely made of boards placed upright and covered with others and the bark of trees. Many had crumbled away by the effects of dampness and the hand of time. [Owing to] their dilapidated state heaps of bones of all sizes and ages were lying about, and I may add with all propriety, all shapes as far as the head was considered. These people have a singular fancy, peculiar to themselves, of flattening the forehead to correspond with a line to the crown of the head. The back of the head is made perfectly flat. Many of these skulls had been removed and scattered through the woods by persons, whose curiosity being satisfied, had dropped them where the wagon wheels had pounded them into dust. Towards the lower part of the rapids there is quite a clearing at what was once an Indian encampment. Here the timber is very fine and easy of access.

Having all arrived, we soon got under way, each boat unfurling what little sail the Indians could raise. They are never backward in spreading their blankets when ever a fair wind offers, which sometimes does not Occur for weeks. The wind was fair and as we strung out we produced quite a fleet, the whole number of [craft] being five mackinaw boats, one barge, and one whale boat.

The scenery continued to present a bold appearance until we descended about halfway to [Fort] Vancouver, at a point called Cape Horn. From this part of the river the mountains begin to fall off gradually until a flat country is seen on the left bank. The banks and islands were studded with sycamore, while the hills on the right were covered with pine. Ten miles below Cape Horn the islands are large, and being filled with sycamore [they] resemble very much [those of] the Mississippi valley. About six miles above Fort Vancouver we passed a saw- and flour-mill which is the property of the Hudson’s Bay company.

From here the mountains recede until the country on the left bank becomes quite low. [Here is] a beautiful country for agricultural purposes, [lying] between [Fort] Vancouver and Oregon City, which is twenty miles from the fort. The whole of the boats arrived at Fort Vancouver at five o’clock in the [afternoon], having run forty-five miles [today]. They accomplished the distance from the Dalles in three days, [it] being ninety miles, and were detained one day at the falls. Here we met that portion of the command which had left several days before us. Some of the parties had only arrived one day before, having been detained by heavy head-winds.